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#1591 - 07/20/06 07:12 AM Siding:Shingles vs Clapboard
Anonymous Unregistered



I have a somewhat unusual house: it is post & beam construction with t&g sheathng. The clapboards that are currently on it split a lot, due to wood movement of the sheathing. Also there are no studs 16"oc to nail the clapboards to, so popping nails is a problem. Would cedar shingles, fastened with appropriate staples hold up better?
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#1592 - 07/21/06 01:39 PM Re: Siding:Shingles vs Clapboard
provip Moderator
Super Do It Yourselfer


Registered: 03/03/01
Posts: 1153
Loc: Victoria, BC, Canada
Tell me a little more. How thick is the sheating? and what kind of board is it, OSB, plywood, ? What is it fastened to?.....I presume studs? and what are the centers of these studs? What kind of wood is the clapboard and what are the dimensions?


------------------
Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org

Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
_________________________
Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org

Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .

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#1593 - 07/22/06 12:48 PM Re: Siding:Shingles vs Clapboard
provip Moderator
Super Do It Yourselfer


Registered: 03/03/01
Posts: 1153
Loc: Victoria, BC, Canada
Further info:
The sheathing is 3/4" tongue and groove pine, nailed to beams 36" on center (or thereabouts). The present clapboards are the cheap 5 1/2"spruce ones (painted). The vapor barrier on the inside is somewhat sketchy.

Response:
I suspect your biggest problem is the spruce capboards. Spruce is a poor choice for exterior cladding because it doesn’t weather well. Even if it was encapsulated with a good exterior coating it will still split and warp. The best choices in wood are cedar and redwood. Fir can work as well if it is kiln dried and encapsulated. There are of course exotic woods that will work as well but they are cost prohibitive. Whether you use siding or shingles, a power nailer is the best choice for fastening as it puts less stress on the wood and walls. As well, 36” centers would create a lot of bounce if you use a hammer.
You might want to consider a composite siding as well but these can be more expensive.
…and make sure you apply new building paper.
How is your insulation? If re-doing the whole house, you might want to consider installing rigid insulation before the siding. Depending on where you live, this could make a huge difference in heating and comfort to your home.


------------------
Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org

Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
_________________________
Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org

Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .

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