#1322 - 05/02/05 12:14 AM
Deck Beams and Joists
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Anonymous
Anonymous
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Deck will be approx 6feet high and posts will sit on piers and piers on solid concrete under the entire deck. Deck will be 25feet wide, 12 feet out from house with header. Planks will be composite, deck material pressure treated wood. Should beams be sandwiched or placed on top of posts? Should joists be placed on top of beams or between the beams with hangers? I plan posts 6 feet apart for the 25 foot wide section and 3 rows of posts on the 12 foot section. Thank you.
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#1323 - 05/02/05 09:58 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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provip
Super Do It Yourselfer
Registered: 03/03/01
Posts: 1153
Loc: Victoria, BC, Canada
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There are different methods of framing. Sizes and spans should be checked at your local building dept. because they can differ from one area to another.
Since you have enough room under the deck, the simple approach is to place the beam on top of the posts and your joists on top of the beam that way you can project them past the beam. Your choice of pressure treated structural members and composite planks is good.
I don't understand your post layout. It appears the span of posts in your case can be more than 6' apart with proper beam size selection and I don't understand what you mean by 3 rows of posts under the 12 foor section.
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Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org
Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
_________________________
Bart Blainey, B.E.R. Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter Building Envelope Specialist Master Renovator provip@prodeck.org http://www.prodeck.orgBarton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
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#1324 - 05/03/05 11:20 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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Anonymous
Anonymous
Unregistered
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The deck will be connected to the house with a ledger and will be 25 feet wide accross the whole width of the entire back of the house. Then it will go out from the house 12 feet. I planned posts about a foot from the ledger every 6 feet across the entire 25 foot width which means four posts across the entire width. Then I was going to put another row of 4 posts starting six feet from the first row, then another final row six feet out from the second row and that would be the final row at the end of the 12 foot length of the deck. Too many posts? The beams are going to run out from the house twelve feet to where it ends and then the joists were going to be hung inbetween the beams instead of on top of them and the planks running from the edge of the house straight out to the end of the twelve foot section in one continuous row of approx 50 planks. Thank you.
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#1325 - 05/03/05 11:25 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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Anonymous
Anonymous
Unregistered
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Posts I guessed are 4x4, beams are two 2x6x12's nailed together and then on top of the posts running perpindicular to the width of the house, out to the 12 feet end of the deck. 2x6 joists hung accross the width between the beams at 16 inch intervals. Overkill? Thanks again.
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#1326 - 05/04/05 09:43 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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provip
Super Do It Yourselfer
Registered: 03/03/01
Posts: 1153
Loc: Victoria, BC, Canada
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There are some different options in your case. From what you describe, I would go with 2x8's for joists, ledger and beam. 4x4's for posts.
When you fasten the ledger to the wall make sure you are lagging into solid wood at the wall, preferably into the house floor trimmer board. You only need one beam which can be made with 3 layers of 2x8's nailed securely together. Alternate say 16 and 9 footers. You only need 4 posts under this beam and if you span them properly you can have one post under the joins.....I hope you know what I mean. These posts can be spanned about 8 1/2 feet and cantilver the ends about a foot. Then run your joists from the ledger over top the beam and span past it about 1 foot. Spruce 2x8's can be spanned 11 feet with 16" centers.
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Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org
Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
_________________________
Bart Blainey, B.E.R. Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter Building Envelope Specialist Master Renovator provip@prodeck.org http://www.prodeck.orgBarton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
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#1327 - 05/05/05 10:44 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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Anonymous
Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thank you for your reply and I do understand perfectly the advice you are giving me, however I am planning to install the beams OUTward from the house and not Parrell with the house as I want the planks to be perpendicular to the house, so the joists have to run parrell with the house. I hope this is not a bother for your advice, I anxiously await it every evening when I get home from work. Thank you.
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#1328 - 05/06/05 12:55 AM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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provip
Super Do It Yourselfer
Registered: 03/03/01
Posts: 1153
Loc: Victoria, BC, Canada
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Hi BillDeck, not a problem.
What you're describing will work but will be costly, time consuming and will require bracing.
Since you are using 2x6 composite floor boards you can install blocks at 2' centers between the joists. Now you can put your floor boards on almost any way you want. You can even make designs.
A lot cheaper and quicker!
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Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org
Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
_________________________
Bart Blainey, B.E.R. Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter Building Envelope Specialist Master Renovator provip@prodeck.org http://www.prodeck.orgBarton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
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#1329 - 05/06/05 08:47 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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Anonymous
Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thanks Bart: I never thought about the blocks between the joists to make the planks work either way but I like the traditional straight out from the edge of the house to the 12 foot end of the deck concept. Went to Lowe's today and they have the composite planks that I like and are highly rated by CR plus found out I need higher rated metal connectors since they say pressure treated wood has been known to cause metal to corrode. Thanks to you, I'm on my way to a new properly planned deck.
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#1330 - 05/06/05 10:00 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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provip
Super Do It Yourselfer
Registered: 03/03/01
Posts: 1153
Loc: Victoria, BC, Canada
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The copper in pressure treated wood is very corrosive to metal.
The natural oils in cedar and redwood causes a chemical reaction with metal turning it black which in turn stains the wood.
For pressure treated, cedar and redwood you need coated nails or screws. We use these by the thousands.
Brown epoxy coated screws for cedar or redwood.
Green epoxy coated screws for pressure treated.
Hot dipped galvanized nails for either.
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Bart Blainey, B.E.R.
Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter
Building Envelope Specialist
Master Renovator
provip@prodeck.org
http://www.prodeck.org
Barton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
_________________________
Bart Blainey, B.E.R. Consultant/Journeyman Carpenter Building Envelope Specialist Master Renovator provip@prodeck.org http://www.prodeck.orgBarton Blainey (provip) specifically assumes no legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information or process disclosed. The above further expressly advises that any use of or reliance upon the information and or opinion disclosed is at your risk .
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#1331 - 05/07/05 12:29 PM
Re: Deck Beams and Joists
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Anonymous
Anonymous
Unregistered
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Again, thank you for your invaluable advice and experience. I have copied your recommendations to my deck worksheet and will be sure to use the correct screws and or nails. I discovered there is a supposid industry standard for the connectors and that if I use a product called Simpson Stong Tie ZMAX to help protect against corrosion as they have a rating of GP185 where most have G90 rating. I also read that stainless steel connectors provide the most resistance to corrosion. I want this deck to last as maintance free as possible for at least 20 years and thats why I have chosen composite planks over regular redwood or spruce. Again, thank you.
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