The installer must be the final judge as to whether the sub-floor meets the following requirements. Not doing so may jeopardize the success of the installation.

• The floor must be clean and free of any defects such as loose boards and squeaks due to improper installation of plywood on joists.
• Concrete floors must be fully cured and dry. (Calcium Chloride count of '3' or less is recommended)
• Moisture content in wood sub-floors must be 12% or LOWER.
• Floor should be sound and flat with no voids greater than 3 inches. High spots must be ground off and low spots filled to make the floor flat (1/8" in a 48" length)
• Moisture barrier should not be used over a wood or a wood product sub-floor.

Existing Flooring:

Flooring may be installed over most types of existing flooring such as linoleum, vinyl, wood, concrete or tile floors and ¼" non-padded direct glue-down commercial carpet. Wall-to-wall carpet should be removed and the sub-floor examined and repaired, if necessary, prior to installation. Please note the following:

• If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure. Perimeter-glued vinyl should be inspected and stapled/secured to the sub floor to ensure integrity.
• If installing over an existing wood floor, install the laminate flooring at right angles to the wood floor.
• Creaking and loose floorboards must be secured by using screws.
• Never use the foam underlayment with moisture barrier on wood floors or wood sub-floors.

Radiant Heat Sub-floors:

Flooring can be installed over all types of subfloors containing radiant heating systems if these guidelines are followed:

• Follow the directions provided by the supplier or manufacturer of the floor heating system.
• The concrete must be cured a minimum of 6 weeks.
• Foam underlayment with moisture barrier must be used.
• The heating system must be in operation 2 weeks prior to installation. Turn off the system or lower the temperature to between 55 and 65 degrees for two days prior to the installation of the floor.
• Forty-eight hours after the installation, the heat may be gradually increased to the operating level desired, but not to exceed 85 degrees.
• Moisture Barrier must always be used with concrete substrate.

Kitchen, Bath and other Potentially Wet Environment Installations:

Lay the foam underlayment and, if applicable, tape the edges together with duct tape. For installations over concrete, use the underlayment with moisture barrier which has a flap of plastic membrane on one edge. Lay the first row of foam with moisture barrier so that the plastic membrane flap extends out onto the sub floor. Then lay the second row of foam over the extended flap and tape the entire edge together with duct tape to provide a moisture barrier between the foam sections. Repeat this process as you continue the installation. It is very important to ensure that an adequate moisture barrier exists when installing Laminate over a concrete sub floor.

When installing the laminate flooring in a potentially wet environment (bath, kitchen, utility room, etc.), use color coordinated perimeter sealant to seal all of the cut edges and the expansion space. Cut the perimeter sealant tube applicator tip to obtain a ½" bead. Apply the sealant in a smooth, continuous bead around the perimeter of the floor. All cutouts (toilet flange, pipes, etc.) should be sealed, as well. Once the sealant has been applied, wet your finger and force the sealant into the expansion space and the other cutouts. If correctly applied the sealant should be approximately 1/16" above the surface of the flooring. The installer should ensure that all exposed core surfaces are covered. Allow to dry for 72 hours.

Important Installation Tips:

• Generally, a more beautiful installation can be achieved by installing the planks parallel to incoming light. In narrow rooms, install planks parallel to longer walls, regardless of the direction of the light.
• Rooms larger than 1,000 square feet or 40 lineal feet must be installed with T-Molding near the center to allow for proper expansion. As the area of installation increases, additional expansion space needs to be allowed.
• To minimize chipping, cut the planks so the saw teeth travel into the decorative face as they cut.
• NOTE: The sawdust from cutting the planks contains Aluminum Oxide from the wear layer. This material can scratch the surface. If possible, do not saw the material in the same room as the install.
• If properly glued, the planks should go together easily. Use the tapping block to help get the plank together but do not "bang" the boards together. Chipping or raising of the edges can occur if too much force is used.
• Always work safely, taking precautions with power tools and other hazards.
• Caution! Wood Dust! Sawing, sanding or machining wood products can produce wood dust that can cause a flammable or explosive hazard. Wood dust may cause lung, upper respiratory tract, eye and skin irritation. Some wood species may cause dermatitis and/or respiratory allergic effects.
• Avoid contact with ignition sources.
• Sweep or vacuum dust for recovery or disposal.
• Avoid breathing of wood dust.
• Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin.

FIRST AID: If inhaled, breathe fresh air immediately. In case of contact, flush eyes and skin with water. If irritation persists, call a physician.

Use of Transitions:

• A transition is required in rooms larger than 1,000 square feet or if the floor is 40 or more lineal feet in length.
• A transition should be used between rooms that have different environments, for example, between a kitchen and a utility room.
• Use trim track for transitions that are attached to the sub floor to ensure adequate expansion. Do not nail secured transitions directly to the subfloor.