Home Improvement, Remodeling, Toxic Black Mold & Mortgage Refinance Blog

by Randy Penn.

Introduction

You can find a lot of information on mold, but trying to understand it may be difficult to those who didn’t take biology and chemistry. Even after stumbling through the pronunciation of these words, not everyone can comprehend what was meant by the statement.

“Satratoxin, a low-molecular weight non-volatile organically derived agent, belongs to the macrocyclic trichothecene class of mycotoxins generated from fungal microorganisms.”

As an aid to the homeowner, this overview is intended to explain a few bad products of mold in a less scientific manner. It will focus on those types of mold that have been considered as problematic to the “indoor mold issue” and does not address other fungal organisms which may behave differently. Analogies presented are not intended to be scientifically accurate, but rather to illustrate complex behaviors in more simple terms.

The people who study mold (mycologists) have identified and described over 100,000 species and many believe that this is only a partial listing (estimates of 1.5 million species have been suggested). Try jotting down the names of the first 100,000 people you know then describe each person’s behavior in a specific setting. You will begin to understand the complexities of the problem facing these mold professionals.

Most people have associated mold with allergies and these reactions are certainly prevalent with most all species found indoors. In addition to causing an allergic response, molds can be irritating, infectious and even toxic to humans. Understanding the general behavior of mold provides insight into the adverse components produced by mold.

The Organism

Fungi can be considered nature’s garbage disposal. Without them, the term “biodegradable” would not be so significant to our planet and we would have mountains of leaves, dead trees, and other organic materials sitting around…all deposited since the beginning of time. This, in simple terms, is the ‘why’ of mold.

For the moment, think of mold as a weed. This weed has a root system, a vegetative stalk, and a seed pod. For mold, the root system is made up of hyphae (high-fee). As hyphae grows into a mass during the vegetative state, it becomes a mycelium (my-sill-ee-um). The spores, designed for reproduction, are similar to seeds.

Like a weed, mold needs food and water to survive (yes, both need more than that, however, we are simplifying things here). For mold, the food of preference is organic matter (things that once were living). Indoors, those things are wood, paper, organic dust and dirt, leather, skin flakes, body oils, etc.

When mold spores that are floating around in the air land on a food source, they sit there patiently waiting for water. If the item they land on should contain sufficient moisture, or water comes from another source (leaks, etc.), the spore germinates and hyphae grows. The hyphae branch out, secrete enzymes to breakdown the food, form the mycelium, and absorb nutrients to grow. As long as the food and water hold out, colonies will continue to grow. Note that individual hyphae and spores are very, very small and few can see them without a microscope. When you see visible mold, you are generally seeing that mass of mycelium.

Hyphae can intertwine into the fibers of the substrate, penetrating the pores. As it consumes the substrate, it can also create it’s own route by dissolving pathways into the material. This is one of the reasons it is so difficult to kill and/or clean up mold on organic substrates. If you remove the surface growth, those bits of hyphae within the substrate are ready for re-growth upon the return of moisture.

As the organism matures, it develops spores intended for reproduction. Spores vary in size, shape, weight and methods of distribution. Some are light and buoyant so they float easily through the air. Others are wet and sticky and may cling to insects, rodents, etc. as a mode of travel.

Volatile Organic Compounds

As mold “consumes” it’s food, the chemical reactions of enzymes, substrates and mold growth produce carbon dioxide, water, and volatile organic compounds (VOC’s). Because these items are a result of actions essential to the growth of the organism, they are classified as primary metabolites.

For mold, many types of VOC’s are produced and typically include aldehydes, alcohols, keytones, and hydrocarbons. They have complex structures and names like “2-methyl-1-propanol”, so if you are going to dig deeper into VOC’s, get ready for chemistry class.

They are called volatile in that they evaporate easily at room temperature and pressure. Fortunately, this volatility aids in dilution with fresh air to minimize concentrated build-up of these chemicals. Testing for VOC’s is often accomplished by using vacuum cylinders to obtain samples of the air with laboratory analysis obtained from sophisticated test instruments (gas chromatograph/mass spectrometer).

When you smell a “musty-moldy” odor, it’s generally the VOC’s you are noticing. VOC’s are often considered irritants to mucus membranes, however, are also capable of both short-term and long-term adverse health effects. If you do smell these odors, it’s a sure sign the mold is consuming and growing and you need to take action. (Note that VOC’s may also be derived from non-mold sources including natural materials used in cleaning agents.)

Toxins

Many molds are capable of producing compounds called mycotoxins which are toxic to other organisms, including people. Mycologists believe these toxins are produced as protection against competing organisms and therefore, humans are simply caught in the cross-fire of this fight for survival.

Since these toxins are not essential for growth, they are classified as secondary metabolites. Toxic secondary metabolites require extra work on the part of the organism so production does not occur at all times, or, with all types of mold.

Scientists have identified over 400 mycotoxins and unlike VOC’s, these compounds are usually non-volatile (don’t evaporate easily at room temperature and pressure). One strain of mold may produce multiple toxins and one type of toxin may be produced by multiple strains of mold. Research has indicated that the type of substrate (nutrients), the growing conditions, together with the species of mold, will impact which toxins are created.

Some of these toxic substances are considered extremely hazardous to people, unfortunately, quantified human dose-response data is limited. Lab and field studies have shown these compounds to produce severe toxic effects in both animals and humans and therefore, the general recommendation is to minimize exposure to potentially toxigenic mold. Symptoms from toxic exposure range from flu-like symptoms, skin rashes and lesions, bleeding, fatigue, difficulty breathing, depression, etc. to longer-term nerve and organ problems, altered immunity, and cancer.

Not all secondary metabolites are considered bad for people…the antibiotics such as penicillin have beneficial use. However, from the mycological standpoint, antibiotics are considered mycotoxins since they too are generated by mold to ward off microorganisms (i.e. competing bacteria).

When the organism is producing toxins, the toxins are known to be present in the cell wall of spores and hyphae. It’s relatively easy to test for spores and hyphae, however, testing these components to see if they contain toxins is significantly more complex. Whereas a single spore can be viewed under a microscope, identifying what compounds are contained in the cell wall is difficult.

In order to identify these toxic compounds, laboratories must have a sufficient quantity of toxin-containing spores and carefully process them through sophisticated and expensive equipment that is capable of isolating chemicals down to billionths of an gram (remember, mold spores are microscopic so what is contained within it’s cell wall is extremely small). This testing is made even more difficult since there are a few hundred toxins to analyze and the behavior of mold is such that a toxin-producing mold in the field doesn’t necessarily produce the same type and quantity of toxins in the lab.

Generally speaking, identifying a mold type that is known to be capable of producing toxins is sufficient information to warrant precautions and avoid exposure without submitting for toxic analysis. However, if trying to confirm specific adverse health effects, obtaining an analysis of both VOC’s and toxins can be beneficial but often expensive.

Randy Penn is an independent licensed real estate inspector (Texas #5491) who specializes in mold testing and specimen recovery. He has a Bachelor of Science degree in engineering, is a member of the Indoor Air Quality Association, has invested hundreds of hours in researching and training on fungal microorganisms, has completed IAQA’s workshop on mold remediation and has provided mold related presentations to homeowners and real estate professionals.

If you’re thinking about building or renovating your home, you might want to consider some green options. No – I don’t meant having a green color scheme (although you certainly can if it suits you), I’m talking about making eco friendly choices for your new design.

Green Home Remodeling Products

Certainly one of the first things that comes to mind is using “green” products. Low VOC carpets and floors and cabinetry made from sustainable materials like cork and bamboo should be high on your choice list. In the kitchen and bathrooms, you could opt for recycled glass countertops that add a unique touch to the kitchen and are a great way to put old glass to use. These countertops come in many color combinations and resemble artful mosaics which lend a classy air to your room.

Green Home Remodeling Recycling Ideas

Another thing to consider is recycling your old items or, using items from someone else’s home. These days, wood floors are very popular and if you are considering them for your home you might look around at older homes that are being torn down to see if you can salvage the flooring. Every item that you reuse from your old design or from someone else’s home is one less item that will end up in the landfill.

Green Home Remodeling to Heat & Cool Your Home

If you are redoing your heating, then look into solar or wind power. Wind power might not be practical for all homes since you need to have quite a bit of land and a high area for the turbine. Solar power, on the other hand, can be adapted to almost anywhere. If putting in a solar system is not within your reach, you should at least make sure that you insulate properly and use triple pane windows and tight fitting seals on your doors to minimize loss of energy from your home.

Green Home Remodeling vs. The Environment

Avoiding use of paints and glues that produce air pollution is another consideration. This is not only important for the environment, but for your health as well. Toxic fumes can build up in your home and are bad for your health. In fact, the EPA estimates that the pollution inside your home can be up to 100 times worse than that outside the home! In order to have cleaner air inside, use water based paints instead of oil based and avoid products that have a lot of adhesives. When you do need to use adhesive, try to make sure they are as “green” as possible.

Luckily, there are plenty of exciting options in eco-friendly materials and you don’t have to sacrifice beauty or function to go green. When choosing the new materials and items for your home, be sure you do your homework and look for eco-friendly options – I think you will find plenty of items that fit in your new design!

Here are 10 “green” things you can do that won’t crimp your style or your wallet:

Use recyclable cloth grocery bags instead of plastic – plastic bags take eons to degrade and can be harmful to wildlife. Cloth bags only cost you $1 and some grocery stores even give you a rebate every time you use them. Not only that but they fit more groceries, can be used over and over again for anything and are easier to carry!

Buy reusable coffee filters – you’ll never run out!

Put your kitchen scraps in a compost pile – you’ll have great organic fertilizer for your garden and be making good use of your scraps.

Use cloth kitchen towels instead of paper towels.

Buy used items – need a new sofa or TV? Try looking at your local consignment store or in the classifieds – you can get like new items for a fraction of the price and it keeps those items out of the landfill.

Don’t print – do you really need to print that out? Think hard before you print stuff on your computer – you’ll save a ton on ink and paper.

Get your news online – instead of getting a newspaper delivered to your house, just go online and read your local news. Almost every newspaper has webpage these days where you can get late breaking news.

Work from home – if your company allows it, try to work from home 1 or 2 days a week. You’ll be producing less carbon emissions and saving on gas (plus you’ll probably get a lot more done without your boss staring over your shoulder!)

Buy local – flying and trucking food all over the world creates a lot of pollution so if you have a local farmers market, try to support your local farmers and buy as much food as you can there. It will be healthier for you and the environment.

Turn down your water heater – most people have their water heater up too high – turn yours down to 120 degrees and make sure you but an insulating sweater around it. This will help it run more efficiently and save you on heating your water. For even more savings, insulate the pipes coming out of the water heater.

There’s plenty more you can do to help the environment but it can be overwhelming to try to implement too many things at once. Try some of the tips above and, once you have them structured into your daily routine take on more green living activities – before you know it you’ll be living a fully eco-friendly lifestyle!

The objective of the insured consumer is to have their property returned to a pre-damaged condition.

The objective of the insurance adjuster is to minimize the claim payout.

WE HAVE, THEREFORE, AN ADVERSARIAL SITUATION.

The quicker the consumer understands and accepts this fact, the better. Begin by examining the entire claim process exclusively in terms of MONEY. It is your MONEY, and your insurance company wants to keep as much of it as possible. Of course you have lost irreplaceable belongings — family photographs, letters, and heirlooms. You have no place to live, no food, no medicine, and little clothing. You are emotionally devastated. You can’t sleep, and fail to think in terms of the tragedy equating to nothing more then MONEY. Yet, MONEY is the focus of the adjuster; nothing more.

OBVIOUS FACTS:

The professional adjuster already knows the true damages and the total exposure of the company. Her objective is to minimize what is ultimately paid. The adjuster is required by State law to set “Reserves” (the amount they believe the claim will ultimately cost their company) immediately after inspection of the loss. The insurance adjuster wants the consumer to accept her recommendations on who establishes the building and contents claims. Why? Because the insurance company has control over what their “experts” determine the damages to be. The adjuster wants Contents Restoration firms she controls to immediately take possession of your personal property. Why? They now have “experts” on their side to establish what is and what is not “totaled,” and the condition of this property before they removed it from the loss site

HOW THE ADJUSTER SUCCEEDS

The adjuster must access the knowledge of the insured and play the game most appropriate to their end. The adjuster’s moves are dependent upon company “Guidelines” or “Claims Manuals.” Their objective is to keep the consumer off balance by creating confusion while appearing cooperative. (We describe it as: “smile a lot, utter nothingness, and place as little as possible in writing.”) To do so she will put as little as possible in writing thereby not committing to anything. This allows the adjuster to retain all options. The consumer is always in a defensive posture and usually does not know it. String the claim out as long as possible hoping the insureds will miss important time limits found in the policy which can invalidate all or part of the claim. Even when time limits do not pass, the consumer will be left with little time to properly establish damages when the adjuster finally discloses these limitations. The longer the claim goes on, with no commitments from the insurance company, the more options the company retains and hence, the better their negotiating position.

WHAT CAN THE CONSUMER DO?

1. The consumer must become the offensive player. They do so by:

(A). Establishing their own damages and presenting them timely and in a form required by the insurance contract, State Law, and current Case Law.

(B). Without properly presenting and itemizing your claim, the insurance company will never pay what the policy promises.

2. All communications are in writing; with verbal discussions documented in writing.

(A). The consumer needs to develop a documented “paper trail.

(B). Correspondence needs to be couched in verbiage found in the insurance policy, State Law and regulations, and be consistent with current Court decisions.

By: Brian Dineen/RCAC

You have evaluated the neighborhood and find that your improvement is consistent with general aesthetic and size parameters. You plan to remain in the house for some time. You find that a second mortgage payment will not strain your current monthly budget. You feel you can devote a certain amount of time towards planning the project. And finally, you are really sick of waiting in line to go to the bathroom in your own house!

Your next step is to create a project budget. Decide how long you plan on staying in your home. The length of time you intend to stay in a home will affect how much money you should invest in it. If you are going to stay in the home for more than ten years, you should spend as much as you are able to create the home of your dreams. Make a list of all your debts. You should include any debts you pay on a monthly basis, such as mortgages, car loans, credit cards, and any other items with a fixed monthly payment. This list should not include payments for groceries, utilities, telephone services, or other general expenses. Call this list your monthly expenses. Determine your total gross monthly income. Include all sources of income that you would list on a loan application.

You are ready to determine a project budget. Use the following steps for this process; I have plugged numbers into the formulas to demonstrate how each works.

STEP 1

Lenders use a simple Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratio to determine if a homeowner can afford the additional debt of a remodeling project.

DTI
Enter Your Total Monthly Expenses $2,860.00
Add the Estimated Monthly Payment for the Project + $ 775.67
Total $3,635.67
Divide the Total by Your Gross Monthly Income $7,950.00
DTI = 45.7%

Each lender will approve loans at a specific DTI percentage (most lenders will tell you what their set DTI ratio is, if you ask). In this example, let us assume that the lender accepts DTI ratios of 45 percent. You are right at the cusp of qualifying. Provided your credit rating is good and you have plenty of equity in your home you will most likely be approved for this loan.

STEP 2

The next step is to determine the maximum monthly payment you can afford for remodeling. Multiply your monthly gross income amount by the lender’s maximum DTI allowance, and subtract your current total monthly expenses, excluding the estimated remodeling payment.

Gross Monthly Income $7,950.00
Lender’s DTI ratio x .45
Subtotal $3,577.50
Less Total Monthly Expenses - $2,860.00
Maximum Affordable Payment = $ 717.50

Use this figure to determine the maximum available to you to borrow. In this case we assume that the home improvement loan is a fifteen year note at seven percent. The maximum you can borrow is forty-seven thousand dollars for your project given this monthly payment. There are many different options you can explore with your lender during this process. These options can sometimes increase the amount you can borrow; it is best to discuss this thoroughly with lenders. We discuss financing in more detail in the next section.

STEP 3

The final consideration for your budget is if there is any available cash to supplement what you borrow for the project. These are funds not being set aside for future financial obligations such as retirement, college, or other major purchases (like a new car). They are not required for monthly or general expenses as well. In this example let us assume that you have three thousand dollars in excess funds available for the project. This brings your maximum project budget to fifty thousand dollars.

The budget now becomes the overriding parameter that drives the project. Every decision from this point forward is made according to the limits set by the budget. The next thing to consider is the percentage of the budget necessary for contingencies. Contingencies are unexpected items that present themselves during the course of the project. The guideline is to set aside between five and twenty percent of your budget for contingencies. The actual percentage depends upon the complexity of the project. For instance, a new roof generally does not require other ancillary items be repaired or altered in order to install the roof. Therefore the minimum contingency of five percent is usually sufficient. On the other hand, a large addition to your home involves many more trades and materials that likely require the maximum contingency of twenty percent. As a rule if any portion of your existing walls, floors, or ceilings must be demolished or opened up in order to install the new materials you need a contingency towards the maximum. Although a professional architect and/or contractor have vast knowledge of the construction process he or she does not have X-ray vision. Often times there are situations that complicate construction contained within these areas that cannot possibly be known about until the area is opened. For our example we will assume you are putting on a small kitchen addition (referred to as a “bump-out”). Since you will have to open up an existing wall but the work area is concentrated to a small portion of the house a contingency of fifteen percent should suffice.

This means that the budget for actual construction that you present to the architect is forty-two thousand five hundred dollars. This is the parameter you want your design professional to use. You hold the seven thousand five hundred dollars in reserve to address any unforeseen expenses that occur once the project begins. You protect yourself from scrambling for extra funds in the middle of the upgrade; if you do not use all of the contingency, and there is no rule that says you have to, then you complete your project under budget (heretofore an unheard of occurrence in remodeling)!

Does Remodeling Boost Your Market Value?

Before you drop $25,000 for a major remodeling or renovation job, it certainly helps to know if that investment will pay off when you sell your home. Will it add $25,000 to the resale value of your home, or just make life more comfortable (or expensive)? It’s important information but don’t rely on remodeling industry statistics to provide it, says Kenneth Harney in The Nation’s Housing.

Remodeling Magazine publishes the annual “Cost vs. Value Report,” a nationwide survey that measures the possible return on investment for various remodeling projects when it comes time to sell. It takes a look at 60 regional real estate markets and 12 types of remodeling projects ranging from kitchen and bath renovations to windows and siding. Through a survey of real estate professionals, the report tries to measure how much and how fast the expenditure will add to a home’s resale value.

But the results obtained from these surveys is highly variable, extremely suspect and fraught with potential conflicts of interest, says Harney. Some of the results don’t make sense from a state or regional perspective, either. In the 1998 study, for example, a $10,000 kitchen renovation returns 45 percent of its value in Hartford, Connecticut. That same renovation, however, returns a whopping 125 percent in New Haven. The margin of error might have something to do with the methodology, says Harney, which isn’t backed by actual sales transactions or appraisals. Similar discrepancies show up in nearly every state and region.

Professional appraisers suggest looking at some basic factors in determining how much money you’ll get back from a remodeling expenditure:

1 - Consider Neighborhood Norms.
Compare your home to similar homes in the neighborhood, and apply common sense to the decision. For example, if your home has only one bathroom while most homes have two or more, then it might make sense to install one. But don’t go all out on a luxury, $40,000 master bath with sauna. Maybe a half-bathroom will suffice.

2 - Expensive Isn’t Always Better.
Sometimes the cheapest renovations offer the highest returns. Exterior paint and landscaping improvements can add considerable “curb appeal,” boosting your home’s salability. Basement rec rooms or swimming pools, on the other hand, tend to be losers.

3 - What’s the Demand?
Always look at your area and the real estate market’s relative strength. If homes are consistently selling like hotcakes, then chances are people will pay for your remodeling improvements. Also make sure you get your neighbors’ opinions and possibly a professional real estate appraiser’s assessment of your particular plan.

A 1999 Mayo Clinic Study cites molds as the cause of most of the chronic sinus infections that inflict 37 million Americans each year. Recent studies also link molds to the soaring asthma rate. Molds have been an under recognized health problem, but that is changing. Health-care professionals now know that molds can cause allergies, trigger asthma attacks and increase susceptibility to colds and flu. Anyone with a genetic predisposition can become allergic if exposed repeatedly to high enough levels. Last year Dr. David Sherris at the Mayo Clinic performed a study of 210 patients with chronic sinus infections and found that most had allergic fungal sinusitis. The prevailing medical opinion has been that mold accounted for 6 to 7 percent of all chronic sinusitis. The Mayo Clinic study found that it was 93 percent - the exact reverse. Newsweek, 12/4/00
Mold, nor spores cause illness, other than allergy and/or infections. It is the mycotoxins released when the molds’ food source (moisture) is severed.

An Important Note to Our Visitors:

Toxic Black Mold Exposure and its affects can be very confusing if you do not understand what you are dealing with. We believe it can be controlled with the right knowledge.

Good Luck! ~ “RemodelingGuy”
To help comprehend how small mycotoxins are, one common housefly could carry about 7.35 billion attached to its external body hairs. Consequently, IF 50,000 constitute a theoretically lethal dose, a housefly could carry a lethal dose for over 100,000 individuals.

Outdoor spores are not a usual cause of toxicity, (except for allergies and infection), but when growing inside, molds produce toxins, which are in much higher concentration and can cause illness.

Indoor mold spores indicate mold growth, which indicates mycotoxin production. Currently, we can measure spores, identify spores, but it is difficult to measure mycotoxins. Stachybotrys produces at least 170 known mycotoxins, and probably more that have not been identified.

The Safe Removal of House Mold and Black Mold

House mold is a problem that’s causing more and more concern for people everywhere. The source of a great deal of property damage, house mold can also cause considerable discomfort and illness (particularly allergic problems) if people are exposed to it on a regular basis.

House mold can be controlled — and problems, when detected, can be virtually eliminated. It’s strictly a matter of dealing with dampness and moisture. Here’s why: Mold spores are everywhere in nature. They are constantly floating in the air (they’re too small for the naked eye to see). As dry floaters, they do no harm to people or property. The trouble begins when these mold spores land on surfaces that are wet, like:
leaky pipes rooms or household areas that are unusually humid places where rainwater (or water from a leaky pipe) might seep in and collect; behind walls, for instance, in crawl spaces or in the attic.

Consider this fact: All kinds of mold appear in nature, and none of them grow without water or moisture.

However, it’s hard to detect the onset of mold growth, especially if it’s happening in an out-of-the-way location (such as behind a wall). By the time you discover it (through moldy, mildew-like smells), house mold is already a problem. Mold removal is imperative.

Reported Symptoms

The following list represents some of the symptoms reported in literature relative to mold exposure. Other symptoms specific to infectious and/or toxic molds may be experienced.

Respiratory problems
Nasal & sinus congestion
Burning, watery or reddened eyes
Blurry vision or light sensitivity
Dry, hacking cough
Nose and throat irritation
Shortness of breath
Skin irritations
Headache
Memory problems
Mood changes
Aches & pains
Nosebleeds
Dermatitis
Immune suppression
Fatigue
Chills/fever

House Mold and Health Problems

When house mold is growing freely, it releases allergens (particles that cause allergic reactions), irritants and even, in some cases, toxins, into the air. The usual immune response to breathing in house mold might be excessive sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, rash and, in some cases, asthma.

Black Mold: Danger in the Walls

Most house molds are usually relatively harmless in nature. Save for the potential allergic-type reactions, they do little other harm to people. Black mold is something different, and much more serious.

Known to scientists as Strachybotrys atra or Strachybotrys chartarum, black mold is slimy and often shiny (because it’s wet) in appearance. Greenish/black in color, black mold has been known to cause all kinds of lung disorders, including respiratory bleeding, bronchitis and asthma. It can be fatal as well, especially for babies.

Black mold is no joke.

Be especially careful if you try to clean it up yourself. In fact, if you suspect black mold in your home, you’re probably making a wise decision to call for expert mold removal.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) have issued these preventive measures against black mold:

Keep home humidity down.

Make sure ventilation is adequate (especially in the kitchen and bathrooms).

When choosing cleansers, use mold-killing products.

Don’t carpet bathrooms.

Mold Removal

If you discover mold growth in your home, tend to it immediately. The longer house mold is free to grow, the more damage it can cause. Don’t just clean up the mold. Removal is not enough. You must also fix the water or humidity problem that caused the mold in the first place. In terms of mold removal, consider these important questions:

Should you do it yourself? If the damage is confined to less than 10 square feet, you can probably handle the problem yourself. (Note: If the damage is due to black mold, you might feel more comfortable calling on a mold removal expert.)

Is your HVAC system involved? Before anything else, have your air ducts cleaned thoroughly. Do NOT run your heat or air conditioning before the problem is addressed. Doing so will increase the likelihood of spreading mold throughout your house.

Was the water damage caused by sewage or other contaminated water? Call on an experienced professional to deal with the problem.

Tips for Mold Removal

If you decide to tackle the project yourself, keep these tips in mind:

Fix the source of your water leak first

Never scrape or scratch at mold.

Your actions could release spores into the air and present an inhalation risk.

Prevent skin contact.

Always wear rubber gloves and a facemask.

If mold is on a hard surface scrub it with detergent and water.

If you must use chlorine bleach or other “biocides,” be sure to vent the area to the outside.

Dry the area completely.

If house mold is on an absorbent surface, such as carpeting or ceiling tiles, it will be difficult to clean thoroughly. These items might have to be discarded and replaced.

Before painting or caulking a surface, ensure mold removal is complete.

When to Consider Mortgage Payoff

Read the entire article here

What is Mortgage Payoff?

Mortgage payoff is a financial maneuver whereby you pay slightly more each month in order to payoff your mortgage faster. For many people increasing the amount they pay on their mortgage is something that is very difficult to be able to afford. On the other hand, dividing the total amount in half and perhaps adding a little bit and making two smaller monthly payments seems much easier. Another option is making one mortgage payment every two weeks. This works particularly well for individuals who get paid every 2 weeks. Both of these options, while not adding a great deal to the amount you are paying per month result in a faster mortgage payoff because they do reduce the principle at a steady rate.

Why Do Mortgage Payoff?

Any little bit that you are able to afford to pay ahead on your mortgage will reap amazing savings over the term of your mortgage. Some mortgages only allow a certain amount of flexibility in the amount you are allowed to pay ahead. For that reason, you might want to discuss the wisdom of renegotiating your mortgage to allow better mortgage payoff options. The amount that you can save through mortgage payoff is likely well worth the refinancing fees. In most cases it is entirely possible to save in excess of $20,000 over the term of your mortgage. Not to mention that the length of the loan can be reduced by more than 2 years with a relatively small increase in payments.

For the first time since the beginning of the Consumer Federation of America consumer complaints survey, this year home improvement/home construction passed auto sales and auto repair as the top generator of consumer complaints.

This news confirms a long slide in consumer confidence in the building and construction industry. It also illustrates, once again, the lack of any governing body to regulate the remodeling/construction industry. We regulate Realtors who sell the new and previously owned houses, but we don’t regulate the people who build or improve them.

For years, homeowners have been telling me how difficult it is to even find anyone to work on some of the smaller jobs we all need to do around our homes. Here’s the problem: people who don’t have a lot of experience or expertise in construction or home maintenance are out there right now trying to work on these homes across the country. As a result, homeowners are finding that the jobs are not being completed to their satisfaction. Sometimes they are even prepaying for services that don’t get done.

This does not just apply to home improvement or handypersons working on small projects. New construction and new home building is generating just as many complaints. Too many homebuyers are only worried how many square feet or how big a house they can afford and not how the home is constructed and the quality of that construction. Trust me folks, the technology and products are out there now to build a home that is both energy efficient and low maintenance if the homebuyer and builder want to spend the time and money to build it that way. The problem today is homebuyers are more worried about what color carpeting they are going to install and the color scheme of the house rather than the walls and floors themselves.

There are ways to build a quality home but it takes a little more time and effort and – yes - a little more money, too. Let’s imagine two homes constructed side-by-side. One was constructed using all of the newest products and techniques available in the industry today and is 1,800 square feet. The second home, totaling 2,000 square feet, is built using less expensive materials and services, but acceptable under the code restrictions. Both houses may be the same price, but buyers seem to opt for the extra square footage and don’t seem to worry about the quality of construction.

Personally, I believe homebuyers would worry more about the construction quality if they were educated how a home really should be built as well as the great new products and services now available. Most home builders are aware of these facts, but are hesitant to build with this type of quality or expense because they aren’t convinced homebuyers want to spend that extra money for something they cannot see. The builders are also unconvinced because the products or services don’t add any extra square footage to the home. Many believe this is a “bottom line” for homeowners. This is a shame!

The problem, then, is twofold. If homebuyers will just quit buying cheaply made homes, the builders will be stuck with them and will be forced to stop building them. If builders will just build every home as if they were going to live there themselves, then perhaps homebuyers will have confidence their home purchase will not cost them an arm and a leg to maintain and fix each year.

We have to work both sides of the fence here. Homeowners need to be educated not only on how a home should be constructed but the products to use to make their home the quality purchase they expect. Likewise, home builders need to inform the buyers as to why they are building the home a certain way and why it is going to cost a little more than the one down the street.

In the coming weeks in this column, I will discuss how a home should be built and more importantly, how to hire a contractor or builder to do those building projects around your home as well as how to protect yourself from some of the ones that just really don’t know what they are doing.

~ Jimmy

 Walls: The walls are covered with a winter’s worth of grease, dirt and all-around yuck. You can make painted walls a couple of shades lighter with a good cleaning. Use 2 ounces dry measure of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon of water. If the kitchen walls are greasy, add 1/2 cup of household ammonia per gallon of the TSP solution. You can also use Dirtex instead of TSP.

Wall washing is an excellent two-person job. Each person should be equipped with a 2 1/2-gallon bucket, a long-handled sponge mop, rubber gloves and goggles. One person’s bucket is filled with the cleaning solution. The other person’s bucket is filled with rinse water. The long-handled sponge mops keep you from having to bend, stretch, or climb a ladder. Start from the bottom and work up. The first person applies a liberal amount of cleaning solution. After letting the solution work for a couple of minutes, the second person finishes the job with the rinse water. Change the rinse water at least every wall.

 Cabinets & counter tops: Use a 2-ounce-per-gallon solution of Simple Green or Clear Magic to get rid of the stickies. Follow up with a thin coat of Doozy Furniture Polish by Mr. Furniture Finish Products. It’s a secret weapon used by the pros and will bring back the luster to counter tops.

 Wallpaper: Mix up a 40- or 50-to-1 solution of a general purpose cleaner such as Simple Green or Clear Magic (that’s about 2 ounces of cleaning solution to a bucket of water) and put it in a spray bottle. Spritz on and wipe off.
 Clean delicate wallpaper and lampshades with the brush attachment to the vacuum cleaner. If very dirty, wipe them down with the Soot & Dirt Remover sponge. This sponge can also be used for cleaning acoustical tiles or any surface you want to clean without water.

 Vinyl flooring: Use a 50-to-1 solution of Simple Green. If you have to strip wax or acrylic build-up I suggest New Beginnings Floor Cleaner and Stripper by Armstrong. To put the shine back on, apply Armstrong’s Shine Keeper.

 Hardwood floors: For light cleaning just spritz on liquid glass cleaner WITHOUT AMMONIA and damp mop. Do not use any product with ammonia. It can damage your expensive hardwood. For tougher work use a specialized cleaning product such as Clean ’n Strip Wood Cleaner by Bruce or Enforcer Products’ Hardwood Floor.

 Tile & grout: Clean the tile with a general cleaner or a specialized tile cleaner like Armstrong Floor Cleaner for No Wax & Ceramic Tile Floors.
 Clean grout with a specialized grout cleaner from Tile Helper, Tile Pro, Aqua Mix or SCI (Stone Care International). Then seal the grout with a liquid penetrating grout sealer by the same company.
 Grout is best cleaned on hands and knees with a cuticle brush. This is strong stuff so wear rubber gloves and goggles. Dip the brush into the cleaner and scrub the grout, then rinse with water. When clean and dry, seal with a liquid penetrating grout sealer. The sealer closes the profile of the grout and keeps it looking good longer.

 Windows: To clean inside windows use a solution of 4 ounces of household ammonia and 1 teaspoon of liquid hand dish washing detergent to a gallon of water. Apply with a sponge, then remove the solution with a squeegee. Wipe up drips from sills with an old bath towel.
 If the temperature is over 50 and you have really dirty windows outside, use 2 ounces of TSP, 4 ounces of white vinegar and a gallon of water.

 Where to find products: Most of these cleaners are available at good hardware stores and home centers. You’ll also find strippers and specialized cleaning products at cleaning supply stores.

Good Luck from ‘The Crew.’