Archive for March, 2009
Toxic Black Mold - Your Home Insurance Carrier and the Facts YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE you file a claim.
The objective of the insured consumer is to have their property returned to a pre-damaged condition.
The objective of the insurance adjuster is to minimize the claim payout.
WE HAVE, THEREFORE, AN ADVERSARIAL SITUATION.
The quicker the consumer understands and accepts this fact, the better. Begin by examining the entire claim process exclusively in terms of MONEY. It is your MONEY, and your insurance company wants to keep as much of it as possible. Of course you have lost irreplaceable belongings — family photographs, letters, and heirlooms. You have no place to live, no food, no medicine, and little clothing. You are emotionally devastated. You can’t sleep, and fail to think in terms of the tragedy equating to nothing more then MONEY. Yet, MONEY is the focus of the adjuster; nothing more.
OBVIOUS FACTS:
The professional adjuster already knows the true damages and the total exposure of the company. Her objective is to minimize what is ultimately paid. The adjuster is required by State law to set “Reserves” (the amount they believe the claim will ultimately cost their company) immediately after inspection of the loss. The insurance adjuster wants the consumer to accept her recommendations on who establishes the building and contents claims. Why? Because the insurance company has control over what their “experts” determine the damages to be. The adjuster wants Contents Restoration firms she controls to immediately take possession of your personal property. Why? They now have “experts” on their side to establish what is and what is not “totaled,” and the condition of this property before they removed it from the loss site
HOW THE ADJUSTER SUCCEEDS
The adjuster must access the knowledge of the insured and play the game most appropriate to their end. The adjuster’s moves are dependent upon company “Guidelines” or “Claims Manuals.” Their objective is to keep the consumer off balance by creating confusion while appearing cooperative. (We describe it as: “smile a lot, utter nothingness, and place as little as possible in writing.”) To do so she will put as little as possible in writing thereby not committing to anything. This allows the adjuster to retain all options. The consumer is always in a defensive posture and usually does not know it. String the claim out as long as possible hoping the insureds will miss important time limits found in the policy which can invalidate all or part of the claim. Even when time limits do not pass, the consumer will be left with little time to properly establish damages when the adjuster finally discloses these limitations. The longer the claim goes on, with no commitments from the insurance company, the more options the company retains and hence, the better their negotiating position.
WHAT CAN THE CONSUMER DO?
1. The consumer must become the offensive player. They do so by:
(A). Establishing their own damages and presenting them timely and in a form required by the insurance contract, State Law, and current Case Law.
(B). Without properly presenting and itemizing your claim, the insurance company will never pay what the policy promises.
2. All communications are in writing; with verbal discussions documented in writing.
(A). The consumer needs to develop a documented “paper trail.
(B). Correspondence needs to be couched in verbiage found in the insurance policy, State Law and regulations, and be consistent with current Court decisions.
Home Improvement Projects - Setting a Budget
By: Brian Dineen/RCAC
You have evaluated the neighborhood and find that your improvement is consistent with general aesthetic and size parameters. You plan to remain in the house for some time. You find that a second mortgage payment will not strain your current monthly budget. You feel you can devote a certain amount of time towards planning the project. And finally, you are really sick of waiting in line to go to the bathroom in your own house!
Your next step is to create a project budget. Decide how long you plan on staying in your home. The length of time you intend to stay in a home will affect how much money you should invest in it. If you are going to stay in the home for more than ten years, you should spend as much as you are able to create the home of your dreams. Make a list of all your debts. You should include any debts you pay on a monthly basis, such as mortgages, car loans, credit cards, and any other items with a fixed monthly payment. This list should not include payments for groceries, utilities, telephone services, or other general expenses. Call this list your monthly expenses. Determine your total gross monthly income. Include all sources of income that you would list on a loan application.
You are ready to determine a project budget. Use the following steps for this process; I have plugged numbers into the formulas to demonstrate how each works.
STEP 1
Lenders use a simple Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratio to determine if a homeowner can afford the additional debt of a remodeling project.
DTI
Enter Your Total Monthly Expenses $2,860.00
Add the Estimated Monthly Payment for the Project + $ 775.67
Total $3,635.67
Divide the Total by Your Gross Monthly Income $7,950.00
DTI = 45.7%
Each lender will approve loans at a specific DTI percentage (most lenders will tell you what their set DTI ratio is, if you ask). In this example, let us assume that the lender accepts DTI ratios of 45 percent. You are right at the cusp of qualifying. Provided your credit rating is good and you have plenty of equity in your home you will most likely be approved for this loan.
STEP 2
The next step is to determine the maximum monthly payment you can afford for remodeling. Multiply your monthly gross income amount by the lender’s maximum DTI allowance, and subtract your current total monthly expenses, excluding the estimated remodeling payment.
Gross Monthly Income $7,950.00
Lender’s DTI ratio x .45
Subtotal $3,577.50
Less Total Monthly Expenses - $2,860.00
Maximum Affordable Payment = $ 717.50
Use this figure to determine the maximum available to you to borrow. In this case we assume that the home improvement loan is a fifteen year note at seven percent. The maximum you can borrow is forty-seven thousand dollars for your project given this monthly payment. There are many different options you can explore with your lender during this process. These options can sometimes increase the amount you can borrow; it is best to discuss this thoroughly with lenders. We discuss financing in more detail in the next section.
STEP 3
The final consideration for your budget is if there is any available cash to supplement what you borrow for the project. These are funds not being set aside for future financial obligations such as retirement, college, or other major purchases (like a new car). They are not required for monthly or general expenses as well. In this example let us assume that you have three thousand dollars in excess funds available for the project. This brings your maximum project budget to fifty thousand dollars.
The budget now becomes the overriding parameter that drives the project. Every decision from this point forward is made according to the limits set by the budget. The next thing to consider is the percentage of the budget necessary for contingencies. Contingencies are unexpected items that present themselves during the course of the project. The guideline is to set aside between five and twenty percent of your budget for contingencies. The actual percentage depends upon the complexity of the project. For instance, a new roof generally does not require other ancillary items be repaired or altered in order to install the roof. Therefore the minimum contingency of five percent is usually sufficient. On the other hand, a large addition to your home involves many more trades and materials that likely require the maximum contingency of twenty percent. As a rule if any portion of your existing walls, floors, or ceilings must be demolished or opened up in order to install the new materials you need a contingency towards the maximum. Although a professional architect and/or contractor have vast knowledge of the construction process he or she does not have X-ray vision. Often times there are situations that complicate construction contained within these areas that cannot possibly be known about until the area is opened. For our example we will assume you are putting on a small kitchen addition (referred to as a “bump-out”). Since you will have to open up an existing wall but the work area is concentrated to a small portion of the house a contingency of fifteen percent should suffice.
This means that the budget for actual construction that you present to the architect is forty-two thousand five hundred dollars. This is the parameter you want your design professional to use. You hold the seven thousand five hundred dollars in reserve to address any unforeseen expenses that occur once the project begins. You protect yourself from scrambling for extra funds in the middle of the upgrade; if you do not use all of the contingency, and there is no rule that says you have to, then you complete your project under budget (heretofore an unheard of occurrence in remodeling)!
Does Remodeling Boost Your Resale Value?
Does Remodeling Boost Your Market Value?
Before you drop $25,000 for a major remodeling or renovation job, it certainly helps to know if that investment will pay off when you sell your home. Will it add $25,000 to the resale value of your home, or just make life more comfortable (or expensive)? It’s important information but don’t rely on remodeling industry statistics to provide it, says Kenneth Harney in The Nation’s Housing.
Remodeling Magazine publishes the annual “Cost vs. Value Report,” a nationwide survey that measures the possible return on investment for various remodeling projects when it comes time to sell. It takes a look at 60 regional real estate markets and 12 types of remodeling projects ranging from kitchen and bath renovations to windows and siding. Through a survey of real estate professionals, the report tries to measure how much and how fast the expenditure will add to a home’s resale value.
But the results obtained from these surveys is highly variable, extremely suspect and fraught with potential conflicts of interest, says Harney. Some of the results don’t make sense from a state or regional perspective, either. In the 1998 study, for example, a $10,000 kitchen renovation returns 45 percent of its value in Hartford, Connecticut. That same renovation, however, returns a whopping 125 percent in New Haven. The margin of error might have something to do with the methodology, says Harney, which isn’t backed by actual sales transactions or appraisals. Similar discrepancies show up in nearly every state and region.
Professional appraisers suggest looking at some basic factors in determining how much money you’ll get back from a remodeling expenditure:
1 - Consider Neighborhood Norms.
Compare your home to similar homes in the neighborhood, and apply common sense to the decision. For example, if your home has only one bathroom while most homes have two or more, then it might make sense to install one. But don’t go all out on a luxury, $40,000 master bath with sauna. Maybe a half-bathroom will suffice.
2 - Expensive Isn’t Always Better.
Sometimes the cheapest renovations offer the highest returns. Exterior paint and landscaping improvements can add considerable “curb appeal,” boosting your home’s salability. Basement rec rooms or swimming pools, on the other hand, tend to be losers.
3 - What’s the Demand?
Always look at your area and the real estate market’s relative strength. If homes are consistently selling like hotcakes, then chances are people will pay for your remodeling improvements. Also make sure you get your neighbors’ opinions and possibly a professional real estate appraiser’s assessment of your particular plan.
Toxic Black Mold Removal Guidelines
A 1999 Mayo Clinic Study cites molds as the cause of most of the chronic sinus infections that inflict 37 million Americans each year. Recent studies also link molds to the soaring asthma rate. Molds have been an under recognized health problem, but that is changing. Health-care professionals now know that molds can cause allergies, trigger asthma attacks and increase susceptibility to colds and flu. Anyone with a genetic predisposition can become allergic if exposed repeatedly to high enough levels. Last year Dr. David Sherris at the Mayo Clinic performed a study of 210 patients with chronic sinus infections and found that most had allergic fungal sinusitis. The prevailing medical opinion has been that mold accounted for 6 to 7 percent of all chronic sinusitis. The Mayo Clinic study found that it was 93 percent - the exact reverse. Newsweek, 12/4/00
Mold, nor spores cause illness, other than allergy and/or infections. It is the mycotoxins released when the molds’ food source (moisture) is severed.
An Important Note to Our Visitors:
Toxic Black Mold Exposure and its affects can be very confusing if you do not understand what you are dealing with. We believe it can be controlled with the right knowledge.
HOWEVER, getting over the health problems caused by toxic mold exposure is not as easy.
Please Remember that Toxic Black Mold in Your Home or Workplace & Bad Indoor Air Quality in general, can be Dangerous to Your Health. Never Touch or Go Near Suspected Toxic Mold without Proper Protective Gear. Do Not Breathe In Toxic Mold If At All Possible.
Good Luck! ~ “RemodelingGuy”
To help comprehend how small mycotoxins are, one common housefly could carry about 7.35 billion attached to its external body hairs. Consequently, IF 50,000 constitute a theoretically lethal dose, a housefly could carry a lethal dose for over 100,000 individuals.
Outdoor spores are not a usual cause of toxicity, (except for allergies and infection), but when growing inside, molds produce toxins, which are in much higher concentration and can cause illness.
Indoor mold spores indicate mold growth, which indicates mycotoxin production. Currently, we can measure spores, identify spores, but it is difficult to measure mycotoxins. Stachybotrys produces at least 170 known mycotoxins, and probably more that have not been identified.
The Safe Removal of House Mold and Black Mold
House mold is a problem that’s causing more and more concern for people everywhere. The source of a great deal of property damage, house mold can also cause considerable discomfort and illness (particularly allergic problems) if people are exposed to it on a regular basis.
House mold can be controlled — and problems, when detected, can be virtually eliminated. It’s strictly a matter of dealing with dampness and moisture. Here’s why: Mold spores are everywhere in nature. They are constantly floating in the air (they’re too small for the naked eye to see). As dry floaters, they do no harm to people or property. The trouble begins when these mold spores land on surfaces that are wet, like:
leaky pipes rooms or household areas that are unusually humid places where rainwater (or water from a leaky pipe) might seep in and collect; behind walls, for instance, in crawl spaces or in the attic.
Consider this fact: All kinds of mold appear in nature, and none of them grow without water or moisture.
However, it’s hard to detect the onset of mold growth, especially if it’s happening in an out-of-the-way location (such as behind a wall). By the time you discover it (through moldy, mildew-like smells), house mold is already a problem. Mold removal is imperative.
Reported Symptoms
The following list represents some of the symptoms reported in literature relative to mold exposure. Other symptoms specific to infectious and/or toxic molds may be experienced.
Respiratory problems
Nasal & sinus congestion
Burning, watery or reddened eyes
Blurry vision or light sensitivity
Dry, hacking cough
Nose and throat irritation
Shortness of breath
Skin irritations
Headache
Memory problems
Mood changes
Aches & pains
Nosebleeds
Dermatitis
Immune suppression
Fatigue
Chills/fever
House Mold and Health Problems
When house mold is growing freely, it releases allergens (particles that cause allergic reactions), irritants and even, in some cases, toxins, into the air. The usual immune response to breathing in house mold might be excessive sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, rash and, in some cases, asthma.
Black Mold: Danger in the Walls
Most house molds are usually relatively harmless in nature. Save for the potential allergic-type reactions, they do little other harm to people. Black mold is something different, and much more serious.
Known to scientists as Strachybotrys atra or Strachybotrys chartarum, black mold is slimy and often shiny (because it’s wet) in appearance. Greenish/black in color, black mold has been known to cause all kinds of lung disorders, including respiratory bleeding, bronchitis and asthma. It can be fatal as well, especially for babies.
Black mold is no joke.
Be especially careful if you try to clean it up yourself. In fact, if you suspect black mold in your home, you’re probably making a wise decision to call for expert mold removal.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) have issued these preventive measures against black mold:
Keep home humidity down.
Make sure ventilation is adequate (especially in the kitchen and bathrooms).
When choosing cleansers, use mold-killing products.
Don’t carpet bathrooms.
Mold Removal
If you discover mold growth in your home, tend to it immediately. The longer house mold is free to grow, the more damage it can cause. Don’t just clean up the mold. Removal is not enough. You must also fix the water or humidity problem that caused the mold in the first place. In terms of mold removal, consider these important questions:
Should you do it yourself? If the damage is confined to less than 10 square feet, you can probably handle the problem yourself. (Note: If the damage is due to black mold, you might feel more comfortable calling on a mold removal expert.)
Is your HVAC system involved? Before anything else, have your air ducts cleaned thoroughly. Do NOT run your heat or air conditioning before the problem is addressed. Doing so will increase the likelihood of spreading mold throughout your house.
Was the water damage caused by sewage or other contaminated water? Call on an experienced professional to deal with the problem.
Tips for Mold Removal
If you decide to tackle the project yourself, keep these tips in mind:
Fix the source of your water leak first
Never scrape or scratch at mold.
Your actions could release spores into the air and present an inhalation risk.
Prevent skin contact.
Always wear rubber gloves and a facemask.
If mold is on a hard surface scrub it with detergent and water.
If you must use chlorine bleach or other “biocides,” be sure to vent the area to the outside.
Dry the area completely.
If house mold is on an absorbent surface, such as carpeting or ceiling tiles, it will be difficult to clean thoroughly. These items might have to be discarded and replaced.
Before painting or caulking a surface, ensure mold removal is complete.
Is Mortgage Payoff an Option?
When to Consider Mortgage Payoff
What is Mortgage Payoff?
Mortgage payoff is a financial maneuver whereby you pay slightly more each month in order to payoff your mortgage faster. For many people increasing the amount they pay on their mortgage is something that is very difficult to be able to afford. On the other hand, dividing the total amount in half and perhaps adding a little bit and making two smaller monthly payments seems much easier. Another option is making one mortgage payment every two weeks. This works particularly well for individuals who get paid every 2 weeks. Both of these options, while not adding a great deal to the amount you are paying per month result in a faster mortgage payoff because they do reduce the principle at a steady rate.
Why Do Mortgage Payoff?
Any little bit that you are able to afford to pay ahead on your mortgage will reap amazing savings over the term of your mortgage. Some mortgages only allow a certain amount of flexibility in the amount you are allowed to pay ahead. For that reason, you might want to discuss the wisdom of renegotiating your mortgage to allow better mortgage payoff options. The amount that you can save through mortgage payoff is likely well worth the refinancing fees. In most cases it is entirely possible to save in excess of $20,000 over the term of your mortgage. Not to mention that the length of the loan can be reduced by more than 2 years with a relatively small increase in payments.
Home Improvement, Remodeling and Repair Contractor Complaints
For the first time since the beginning of the Consumer Federation of America consumer complaints survey, this year home improvement/home construction passed auto sales and auto repair as the top generator of consumer complaints.
This news confirms a long slide in consumer confidence in the building and construction industry. It also illustrates, once again, the lack of any governing body to regulate the remodeling/construction industry. We regulate Realtors who sell the new and previously owned houses, but we don’t regulate the people who build or improve them.
For years, homeowners have been telling me how difficult it is to even find anyone to work on some of the smaller jobs we all need to do around our homes. Here’s the problem: people who don’t have a lot of experience or expertise in construction or home maintenance are out there right now trying to work on these homes across the country. As a result, homeowners are finding that the jobs are not being completed to their satisfaction. Sometimes they are even prepaying for services that don’t get done.
This does not just apply to home improvement or handypersons working on small projects. New construction and new home building is generating just as many complaints. Too many homebuyers are only worried how many square feet or how big a house they can afford and not how the home is constructed and the quality of that construction. Trust me folks, the technology and products are out there now to build a home that is both energy efficient and low maintenance if the homebuyer and builder want to spend the time and money to build it that way. The problem today is homebuyers are more worried about what color carpeting they are going to install and the color scheme of the house rather than the walls and floors themselves.
There are ways to build a quality home but it takes a little more time and effort and – yes - a little more money, too. Let’s imagine two homes constructed side-by-side. One was constructed using all of the newest products and techniques available in the industry today and is 1,800 square feet. The second home, totaling 2,000 square feet, is built using less expensive materials and services, but acceptable under the code restrictions. Both houses may be the same price, but buyers seem to opt for the extra square footage and don’t seem to worry about the quality of construction.
Personally, I believe homebuyers would worry more about the construction quality if they were educated how a home really should be built as well as the great new products and services now available. Most home builders are aware of these facts, but are hesitant to build with this type of quality or expense because they aren’t convinced homebuyers want to spend that extra money for something they cannot see. The builders are also unconvinced because the products or services don’t add any extra square footage to the home. Many believe this is a “bottom line” for homeowners. This is a shame!
The problem, then, is twofold. If homebuyers will just quit buying cheaply made homes, the builders will be stuck with them and will be forced to stop building them. If builders will just build every home as if they were going to live there themselves, then perhaps homebuyers will have confidence their home purchase will not cost them an arm and a leg to maintain and fix each year.
We have to work both sides of the fence here. Homeowners need to be educated not only on how a home should be constructed but the products to use to make their home the quality purchase they expect. Likewise, home builders need to inform the buyers as to why they are building the home a certain way and why it is going to cost a little more than the one down the street.
In the coming weeks in this column, I will discuss how a home should be built and more importantly, how to hire a contractor or builder to do those building projects around your home as well as how to protect yourself from some of the ones that just really don’t know what they are doing.
~ Jimmy
Spring Cleaning Time is Here. - Let’s tackle the in-depth, do-it-yourself cleaning projects.
Walls: The walls are covered with a winter’s worth of grease, dirt and all-around yuck. You can make painted walls a couple of shades lighter with a good cleaning. Use 2 ounces dry measure of trisodium phosphate (TSP) per gallon of water. If the kitchen walls are greasy, add 1/2 cup of household ammonia per gallon of the TSP solution. You can also use Dirtex instead of TSP.
Wall washing is an excellent two-person job. Each person should be equipped with a 2 1/2-gallon bucket, a long-handled sponge mop, rubber gloves and goggles. One person’s bucket is filled with the cleaning solution. The other person’s bucket is filled with rinse water. The long-handled sponge mops keep you from having to bend, stretch, or climb a ladder. Start from the bottom and work up. The first person applies a liberal amount of cleaning solution. After letting the solution work for a couple of minutes, the second person finishes the job with the rinse water. Change the rinse water at least every wall.
Cabinets & counter tops: Use a 2-ounce-per-gallon solution of Simple Green or Clear Magic to get rid of the stickies. Follow up with a thin coat of Doozy Furniture Polish by Mr. Furniture Finish Products. It’s a secret weapon used by the pros and will bring back the luster to counter tops.
Wallpaper: Mix up a 40- or 50-to-1 solution of a general purpose cleaner such as Simple Green or Clear Magic (that’s about 2 ounces of cleaning solution to a bucket of water) and put it in a spray bottle. Spritz on and wipe off.
Clean delicate wallpaper and lampshades with the brush attachment to the vacuum cleaner. If very dirty, wipe them down with the Soot & Dirt Remover sponge. This sponge can also be used for cleaning acoustical tiles or any surface you want to clean without water.
Vinyl flooring: Use a 50-to-1 solution of Simple Green. If you have to strip wax or acrylic build-up I suggest New Beginnings Floor Cleaner and Stripper by Armstrong. To put the shine back on, apply Armstrong’s Shine Keeper.
Hardwood floors: For light cleaning just spritz on liquid glass cleaner WITHOUT AMMONIA and damp mop. Do not use any product with ammonia. It can damage your expensive hardwood. For tougher work use a specialized cleaning product such as Clean ’n Strip Wood Cleaner by Bruce or Enforcer Products’ Hardwood Floor.
Tile & grout: Clean the tile with a general cleaner or a specialized tile cleaner like Armstrong Floor Cleaner for No Wax & Ceramic Tile Floors.
Clean grout with a specialized grout cleaner from Tile Helper, Tile Pro, Aqua Mix or SCI (Stone Care International). Then seal the grout with a liquid penetrating grout sealer by the same company.
Grout is best cleaned on hands and knees with a cuticle brush. This is strong stuff so wear rubber gloves and goggles. Dip the brush into the cleaner and scrub the grout, then rinse with water. When clean and dry, seal with a liquid penetrating grout sealer. The sealer closes the profile of the grout and keeps it looking good longer.
Windows: To clean inside windows use a solution of 4 ounces of household ammonia and 1 teaspoon of liquid hand dish washing detergent to a gallon of water. Apply with a sponge, then remove the solution with a squeegee. Wipe up drips from sills with an old bath towel.
If the temperature is over 50 and you have really dirty windows outside, use 2 ounces of TSP, 4 ounces of white vinegar and a gallon of water.
Where to find products: Most of these cleaners are available at good hardware stores and home centers. You’ll also find strippers and specialized cleaning products at cleaning supply stores.
Good Luck from ‘The Crew.’
Should You Use a Do It Yourself Black Mold Kit ???
by Jimmy McDonald - YOUR ” Local Hard Working RemodelingGuy”
Reap the Benefits of Knowing.
Benefits and Setbacks.
Test kits, like the ones we offer on this site, are to be used as a First Step in identifying mold and it’s type, that could be dangerous to your health and your home environment ONLY.
Home testing WILL NOT quantify exact amounts of mold or give you the detailed results of more expensive professional methods that may be necessary if you discover that you have a problem.
Home test kits work well for people who are unsure about the presence of dangerous molds in their homes or businesses, want to find out more, and need a cost effective means of receiving reliable laboratory analysis if it is needed.
While researching for the best do it yourself home test kit to offer our visitors, here are some of facts that we considered and our thoughts.
Home testing WILL NOT quantify exact amounts of mold or give you the detailed results of more expensive professional methods that may be necessary if you discover that you have a problem.
Home test kits work well for people who are unsure about the presence of dangerous molds in their homes or businesses, want to find out more, and need a cost effective means of receiving reliable laboratory analysis if it is needed.
While researching for the best do it yourself home test kit to offer our visitors, here are some of facts that we considered and our thoughts.
These kits include a medium - a solution which captures and promotes mold growth ( potato dextrose or malt extract agars are most common ). The medium is either on a stick or placed in a petri dish.
Benefits:
** Inexpensive.
** Rapid results.The whole process from ordering the kit to sending and receiving lab results can be done in about 10 - 14 days.
** Peace of mind. We want you to do anything you can to determine whether or not you are exposed to unhealthy molds. This is a great first step.
** These tests can be used in three ways.
1) Sample Visual Growth.
If you have visible mold in your home, office etc. and want to have it tested, this allows you take a swab specimen to determine the type of mold and whether or not it is dangerous to you.
2) HVAC Air Sampling.
This allows you to test the HVAC system in your home for possible mold contamination in as little as 48 hours. Can be very effective to determine how safe the air is that you are breathing.
3) Settling Plate Method.
Depends on gravity which in itself can be unreliable. But the information obtained can still be informative. You set the tests around your home, hoping to capture air-borne spores in the dish.
** The laboratories which manufacture these kits will also allow you to include a tape lift from affected areas ( simply lifting mold from a visual source), as well as samples of other mold infected materials for analysis.
Setbacks:
** Directions must be followed exactly or results will be useless.
** The agars will pick up all molds it is exposed to, which do not grow at the same rate. Stachybotrys, for example, does not grow as quickly as say, Aspergillus, which can choke out the Stachybotrys and possibly produce false results in air sampling methods.
** These tests WILL NOT quantify the exact amount of mold in your home. They will only identify them. Many molds, such as the much publicized Stachybotrys chartarum (atra), Penicillium, Aspergillus and others are known to cause serious health problems, even in minute amounts. If you find these molds in your home, we recommend that you contact a physician familiar with treating mold related illnesses immediately.
** These tests are not recommended for persons already in the process of remediation (clean up), or to verify professional results.
If you are sure that you have a dangerous mold in your home, DO NOT hesitate to contact a remediation professional or your insurance company immediately.
We also recommend that you get away from the source in any way you can. The longer you are exposed to these molds, the worse their effects can be.
REMEMBER. Do Not EVER go near or breathe suspected mold without proper protective gear. Do Not Touch it with your bare hands.
Woodworking Project Tips - Dust Collection
Being aggressive in cleaning dust from the air in your shop doesn’t necessarily mean you have to spend a ton on new equipment.
If you don’t have a dust collection system in your shop, now’s a great time to start. For many hobbyists and home-shop woodworkers, such systems seem like a luxury — the last tool to be bought. But more and more of us are beginning to take dust seriously. That’s a fact that the tool industry now recognizes.
Healthy Shop Habit
There’s a reason to be concerned. Wood dust is related to many health hazards, including irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat; skin rashes; asthma; allergies; and some serious lung diseases. It has even been linked to a rare form of nasal cancer. Estimates indicate that up to 13% of woodworkers have dust-induced asthma. Breathing wood dust can also cause chronic bronchitis or emphysema. During their lifetimes, one third of all woodworkers experience some adverse health effects from contact with wood dust.
While shop vacuums are extremely popular among woodworkers, they may not be the best solution for systematic dust control. First and foremost, their capacities are generally much smaller than that of most large, stationary machines. Second, their filters usually don’t trap some of the micro-particles that can aggravate allergies and irritate the respiratory system. There’s no doubt: For most shops, a complete dust collection system is necessary to protect your health.